Tokyo Story -- East meets West

by Noriko Maniwa

Greece and Japan share a fondness for seafood. Both culinary traditions rely on accenting acidity and sweetness in a dish.  So I wondered, would Japanese culinary experts enjoy Greek food and beverage products?

To find out, I gathered a variety of Greek delicacies and presented them to people who are knowledgeable about food. My first meeting was with Chef Tsukasa Masui. Trained by the famous Tujitome Japanese Restaurant of Ginza, Mr. Masui has mastered the art of traditional Japanese cooking.  He is known as the last apprentice to the late ????, who is not only the authoritative figure of "cha kai seki" (light food served during a tea ceremony)", but also as a prolific writer on Japanese culinary culture. 16 years ago, Mr. Masui opened a conger eel (in Japanese it is called Anago) restaurant named, "masu aji", in hopes of introducing the next generation to authentic Japanese cooking. Still adhering to the traditional food preparation of using seasonal ingredients, he presents unique dishes using innovative techniques. Conger eel is a popular ingredient in Japan but this is the probably the only restaurant where you will be served only conger eel. 

High-quality conger eel is hand-selected at Tsukiji market {editor's note: this is the famous fish market of Tokyo} every morning. The mud is thoroughly cleaned out and the eel is then offered as sashimi - which is a rare delicacy even to a food connoisseur. Patrons visit several times a year to sample this eel, as its taste and texture changes with the seasons. 

I asked Mr. Masui if he knew that conger eel (though a slightly different variety than the one found in Japan) is also popular in Greece.  "Greek dish?" He said, "I've never tried it. I've heard that the Greeks eat a lot of seafood, use lemon, vinegar and olive oil in their cooking."

Mr. Masui has never visited Greece, nor had any preconceived opinion about Greece.  Among over 20 kinds of Greek products that are displayed, he first showed interest in the Avgotaraho (a similar product is known as karasumi in Japan).
  
"Mullet roe? They eat karasumi in Greece?" He said, "I have never seen this sort of preservation method, hardened with such wax. The soft, rawness of the fish is preserved in the inside and the common fishy odor is not there. This quality cannot be kept unless the fresh material is prepared on the spot. This is interesting."

Karasumi, when complimented with sake, is highly valued and Mr. Masui prepares his own salt-cured karasumi every year, which is offered at his shop.

Tasting the Avgotaraho, he said, "A lot of salt is used in the preservation process in Japan, so it is difficult to create this sort of karasumi, which is soft and close to raw (in the middle).  When sliced, the fresh flavor is enjoyed and when refrigerated, it may be kept as stock. If karasumi of this quality is manufactured in Japan, it may be offered at around 30,000 yen.  All the chefs will be interested in using it as an ingredient if it may be preserved and the price is reasonable." 

Then, Mr. Masui lightly roasted the Avgotaraho over charcoal fire and presented it.

"It becomes a dish, simply by lightly roasting it like this. The slightly crispy outer part and the soft yet chewy texture in the inner part.  This is how to savor the texture of Avgotaraho."

Next, he selected Kritamo, sometimes called sea fennel and commented that it looked like a Japanese Junsai, or wild weed.  Then he curiously tasted it after being told that it was a plant found by the seashore.

"It has a similar flavor to thyme. Simply chopped up and tossed with grated Daikon radish or cucumber, it becomes a Japanese dish.  Soy sauce with grated radish or ponzu sauce with grated cucumber - served together with a dish with a heavy flavor or served in between dishes as a refreshment will help reset the palette."

Selecting another jar, he said "This marinade with anchovy may also be served as a Japanese dish.  There seem to be a lot of ingredients with high acidity in Greece as there are in Japan."

When he saw the Loukoumia (a jelly sweet) flavored by mastica, he began to thinly slice one. {Editor's note: mastica is a tree that grows on the Greek island of Chios.  There, and only there, it produces a gum resin once used as the first chewing gum and now used as a flavoring and health aid}.

"This is a bit peculiar, but it may be compatible with the strong flavor of "maccha" - powdered green tea.  Semi-transparent quality looks cool and beautiful, and may be suitable to serve at the end of a tea ceremony." Next he tried a sweet dessert wine called Samos.  "It is too sweet to be served with Japanese food, but it can be an aperitif replacement for plum wine." Tahini with honey was a hit. "We can use it for Japanese cooking in boiled spinach salad and so on. Its taste is so mild and the sesame fragrance is so great." After tasting all the ingredients he marveled that all ingredients were applicable to Japanese cooking. 

Next I spoke with Mr. Takeuchi, a food specialist in the wholesale import/export food industry.  Mr. Takeuchi is mainly focused on Italian food imports, but he also brings in foods from Spain, France, other Mediterranean countries, South America, and Asian countries such as Thailand and Vietnam. Included in the conversation was Ms. Kayo Yoshida, a well-regarded food journalist. Mr. Takeuchi, a bridge between manufacturer, importer, and retail shops, comments: 

"Among the imported foods, there are low-priced goods, high-priced goods targeted for the wealthy, and goods for midyear gift exchange (once in the summer and once in winter), but I believe there is one additional market. For instance, is there more than one type of shampoo at your home?  Do you have one shampoo for the father, for the mother, and for the daughter and the son?"

He suggests that in those homes, it is common to have more than one type of olive oil - economical oil for general cooking, and another, higher-quality oil for salad dressing. 

"Many essential ingredients are becoming more saturated in the common household by becoming recognized by the younger generation.  They bring home the foods and the older generation becomes familiarized." 

It is certain that ethnic foods, unfamiliar to Japanese until about 10 years ago, were made familiar because of demand by the new generation. 

"Even familiar ingredients such as olive oil and honey will become interesting to the Japanese market when a story of its origin is told - just as the Japanese claim that rice tastes different depending on the city in which it is produced, Akitakomachi and Sasanishiki, for example.  A story will bring about curiosity in trying new products."

Speaking about rice, next they tried dolma, grape leaves stuffed with rice, like Greek-style sushi.  Mr. Takeuchi found the rice too sticky, but Ms. Yoshida said, "Rice is so sticky but delicious. It tastes like naresushi, which is traditional (old style) sushi from the west region (Kyoto, Shiga, Okayama region)."

Upon tasting the honey, Mr. Takeuchi said, "It tastes good, some people dislike a too strong honey taste.  It would be accepted in Japan if it is not so expensive or if it has a unique story (historical or source or material or function).  Because Japanese honey market has still room for new products."

Mr. Takeuchi's eyes glittered as he held the sugar confectionery, Loukoumia flavored with mastica. 

"I have heard about this, but this is the first time I've tasted it.  It's good - tastes like ginger."

Next he tries a chewing gum also flavored with mastica.  "The package is great and material is so unique.
But in Japan, it is not polite to chew gum." Ms. Yoshida adds, "The package is so cute.  This would be good for a young girl."

Very curious to hear that the mastica, in its raw form, is currently imported to Japan as an ingredient for stomach medicine and is also an ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics being sold in NYC, Mr. Takeuchi said, "It's something I'd be interested in selling. There is an interesting story that supports the product. Just because it has an unfamiliar flavor doesn't mean that the Japanese market will not want it - this is just a selfish assumption by the importer.  There is a meaning to ingredients that have been eaten for hundreds of years."

"However," he continues, "it is necessary to think about the market strategy of each commodity. For instance, I have never seen this sort of preservation method of the karasumi which uses this type of wax. There is a sense of excitement when cutting the karasumi. It is likely that by slowly introducing this product through classy restaurants and hotels, it could make its way to being widely-known. The key to success is to study and research the Japanese market and finding the right niche."

Greece has a long historic culture of cooking. The goodness is infectious, and with any luck will spread its flavors throughout the markets of Japan.